
Makalu Expedition
Highlights of the Trip
Overview
The Makalu Expedition is one of the toughest challenges in Himalayan mountain climbing, where climbers attempt to reach the summit of Makalu, the fifth-highest mountain in the world, standing at 8,485 meters. Located on the border of Nepal and Tibet, Makalu is known for its steep, technical terrain and unpredictable weather. Its pyramid-shaped summit makes the climb even harder. The first successful Makalu climbing was in 1955 by a French team, and since then, only a few climbers have managed to reach the top because of its dangerous conditions.
In the world of Himalayan mountain climbing, Makalu still attracts experienced climbers who want a more challenging climb than Everest or other popular peaks. Today’s Makalu expeditions often rely on advanced technology and equipment to deal with the tough logistics. But the risks of avalanches, altitude sickness, and extreme weather still make it a deadly adventure. Every successful Makalu expedition is seen as a huge accomplishment in high-altitude climbing.
We have provided the details of our expedition like detail itinerary plan, dates, services, costs and if you have any questions that you would like to ask us feel free to email us at info@himalayanmountaineering.com.
Detailed Itinerary
Outline Itinerary
Day 01:
Arrival in Kathmandu and meet with our representative at the airport and transfer to Hotel. Welcome drink and short briefing about Annapurna I Expedition.
Overnight in Hotel - 1400 meter
Day 02-03:
Paper work, gear preparation and more briefing about the trip.
Overnight in Hotel – 1400 meter
Day 04:
Fly to Tumlingtar and Drive to Num
Overnight in Lodge – 1550 meters
Day 05:
Trek to Seduwa Village for almost 6 hours.
Overnight in Lodge – 1530 meters
Day 06:
Trek to Tashi Gaun
Overnight in lodge – 2065 meters
Day 07-08:
Trek to Khongma Danda for almost 7 hours and stay extra day for acclimatization.
Overnight in lodge - 3500 meters
Day 09:
Trek to Dobato via 4 passes Khongma La (3890m), Sano Pokhari Danda (4105m) and Shipton La (4200m) and Keke La (4170m) which will be around 7-8 hours trek.
Overnight in Lodge – 3860m
Day 10:
Trek to Yangle Kharka which will be around 5-6 hours trek.
Overnight in Tent- 3690m
Day 11:
Trek to Makalu Base Camp also known as Hillary Base Camp.
Overnight in Tent- 4800 meters
Day 12:
Trek to Makalu Advance Base Camp following the glacier where you will reach advance base camp at 5300 meters of the chago glacier.
Overnight in Tent – 5300 meters
Day 13-41:
We will adapt our body in high altitude by climbing to different camps from Camp 1 and Camp 2. During these days we will prepare our self for summit physically, mentally and by being familiar to Makalu. Our base camp crew and guide will help you in identifying problems and train you for the summit. We will also have a religious puja ceremony for successful expedition. We will summit and be back to base camp during this time.
Overnight in Tent- 5300m-8463m
Day 42:
Fly to Lukla via helicopter and overnight in Lukla.
Overnight in Hotel- 2860 meters
Day 43:
Fly to Kathmandu
Overnight in Hotel – 1400 meters
Day 44:
Rest day in Kathmandu and farewell dinner.
Overnight in Hotel – 1400 Meters
Day 45:
Final Departure to International Airport after Breakfast.
Include
Our Mount Makalu Climbing Expedition Package Includes:
1. All airport and hotel transfer domestic, international and Helicopter from Base Camp to Lukla.
2. 6 nights' accommodation at 4-star hotel with breakfast in Kathmandu.
3. Meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) with Tea & coffee and hot/cold filter water during the trek, base camp and all other places than Kathmandu.
4. Lodge during trek, Private Member Tent in Base camp and tented accommodation during climbing period on sharing basis. We will have a well settled base camp service with western foods, bakery and bar in Base Camp.
5. Mountain Guide and Experienced One climbing Sherpa for One person from Makalu Base Camp to Summit and back to Base Camp during the climb of Makalu who will help you for your summit and take care of you during the whole climbing.
6. One porter for one person during to trek to base camp and back.
7. Cook, helper, porters and their food & accommodation, salary, equipment’s & insurance for base camp and high camp services.
8. Camping Equipment’s Tents, Kitchen Utensils and Mattresses with high foods.
9. Oxygen Mask and Regulator with 5 liters of Oxygen Bottle is provided to every member and guide for high altitude.
10. 1 Duffle Bag, Radio Set, Satellite Phone, Map, Weather Report, Heater, Solar or Generator in Base Camp for charging mobile, laptop etc.
11. Makalu Climbing permit, National park fees, local Fees.
12. Waste, members stool and garbage management fees and all necessary permits.
13. Government Liaison officer fees with his equipment, insurance, gears, accommodation and foods.
14. Cost of Rope Fixing Sherpa Team.
15. Training of using gears, climbing ladder, rope and other important knowledge and share experience in base camp.
16. First Aid Medical Kit box, frequent medical checkup and necessary emergency equipment’s.
17. Office Service charge and Certificates.
Exclude
Our Makalu Expedition Package Cost doesn't include:
1. Any meals (Lunch and Dinner) in Kathmandu.
2. Travel insurance that should cover your accidental, medical and emergency rescue evacuation in case of worst case.
3. International air fare to and from Nepal.
4. Nepal Tourist Visa fees.
5. Items and expenses of personal nature like beer, Any kind of alcoholic drinks, cold drinks, snacks, laundry, phone call, internet.
6. Personal Trekking and climbing Equipment’s needed for climbing. We recommend you to check all gears before heading to Makalu. Our guide will help you in organizing your personal gears.
7. Emergency Evacuation (Helicopter Rescue).
8. Any costs which arise due to a change of the itinerary, because of landslides, political disturbance, and strikes etc.
9. Summit Bonus to Climbing Sherpa of minimum 1500 USD and Tips of minimum 400 USD to base camp staffs like cook, porters, helpers etc.
10. Any other costs whatsoever, that is not mentioned in the cost included.
11. Tips for guide, porters, driver and other staff.
Gear Checklist
Mount Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world, and an expedition to the summit requires serious preparation and high-quality gear to ensure safety and success. A Makalu expedition usually involves harsh, high-altitude conditions, demanding both technical and personal gear. Below is a comprehensive gear list tailored for a Makalu expedition, focusing on mountaineering, climbing, camping, and personal items.
1. Climbing Gear
Technical Equipment:
-
Ice Axe: Lightweight, durable, and suitable for steep terrain.
-
Crampons: Automatic or semi-automatic crampons, depending on your boots.
-
Climbing Harness: Comfortable and durable, adjustable leg loops.
-
Carabiners: Locking and non-locking (e.g., 8-10 carabiners, including a few locking).
-
Belay Device: Recommended devices include the Petzl GriGri or an ATC.
-
Rope: Dynamic 8mm-9mm for glacier travel, static 10mm for fixed lines.
-
Ascenders: For rope ascension, if using fixed ropes.
-
Prusik Cords: For backup and emergency rope use.
-
Pulleys: For setting up rescue systems, if needed.
-
Rope Protector: To protect your rope from abrasion.
-
Snow Stakes: For anchoring tents and shelters in snowy conditions.
-
Ski Poles (optional): For balance on flat or gently inclined terrain.
2. Clothing
Base Layer:
-
Merino Wool or Synthetic Long Underwear (Top & Bottom): Moisture-wicking, breathable, and insulating.
-
Socks (multiple pairs): Merino wool or synthetic (5-6 pairs).
-
Compression Sleeves: For lower legs or arms, especially if prone to edema.
Mid Layer:
-
Fleece Jacket or Down Sweater: Lightweight but warm layer for added insulation.
-
Insulating Pants (Primaloft or Down): For high-altitude rest or summit push.
-
Softshell Jacket: Windproof and slightly water-resistant.
Outer Layer:
-
Down Jacket (for extreme cold): High-fill down jacket, ideally with a hood.
-
Hard Shell Jacket: Waterproof, breathable shell for protection against snow, rain, and wind.
-
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and windproof pants for climbing in harsh conditions.
-
Windproof Pants: For added warmth and wind resistance during the summit push.
Headgear:
-
Climbing Helmet: Lightweight and durable.
-
Balaclava: For extra face protection in cold weather.
-
Warm Hat: Fleece-lined, insulating hat.
-
Sunglasses: High-quality, UV-blocking.
-
Goggles: For summit day in high winds and blizzards.
-
Neck Gaiter or Buff: Protection from wind, dust, or sun.
Gloves:
-
Lightweight Gloves: For general use.
-
Midweight Gloves: For use during lower altitude days.
-
Heavyweight Mittens: With insulation for high-altitude climbs.
-
Glove Liners: For additional warmth and comfort.
3. Footwear
-
Mountaineering Boots: Insulated, crampon-compatible, and suitable for very cold temperatures (e.g., Scarpa Phantom or La Sportiva Nepal).
-
Approach Shoes: For base camp and trekking.
-
Camp Shoes: Light, comfortable shoes for camp and rest.
-
Gaiters: To keep snow out of boots.
4. Sleeping System
-
Four-Season Sleeping Bag: Rated for temperatures as low as -30°C/-40°F.
-
Sleeping Pad: Insulated, inflatable, and durable (e.g., Therm-a-Rest).
-
Bivy Sack: Waterproof, lightweight, and protects from the wind.
-
Pillow: Compressible, ultralight.
-
Sleeping Bag Liners: To add warmth and extend bag life.
5. Cooking & Hydration
-
Stove: Lightweight multi-fuel stove (e.g., MSR XGK or Primus Omnifuel).
-
Fuel: Sufficient fuel for your stove, considering conditions (e.g., isobutane or white gas).
-
Cookware: A small, durable pot (1-2 liters) and a lightweight mug.
-
Utensils: A spoon, fork, and knife; multipurpose tools can also be handy.
-
Water Bottles: Insulated water bottles to prevent freezing; 2-3 liters.
-
Water Treatment: Steripen, filters, or purification tablets for clean water.
-
Collapsible Sink: For cleaning and water storage.
6. Shelter & Camp Gear
-
Expedition-Grade Tent: A four-season tent that is windproof, snow-resistant, and has sufficient space for 2-3 climbers (e.g., The North Face VE 25 or Hilleberg Nallo).
-
Tent Stakes: Strong, snow-compatible stakes.
-
Snow Shovel: For digging out tent platforms and shelters.
-
Tarp: Lightweight and strong for added shelter or windbreak.
-
Thermal Blankets: Emergency space blankets for additional warmth.
-
Extra Rope: For tent guylines, climbing, or rescue.
7. Food & Snacks
-
High-Calorie, Easy-to-Cook Meals: Freeze-dried meals, dehydrated soups, pasta, or rice.
-
Energy Bars: A variety of calorie-dense energy bars for quick nutrition.
-
Nuts & Dried Fruit: For snacking at high altitudes.
-
Electrolyte Tablets: For hydration and avoiding altitude sickness.
-
Hot Drinks: Instant coffee, tea, hot chocolate.
8. Personal Care & Health
-
Sunscreen (high SPF): For face and lips.
-
Lip Balm (with SPF): To prevent chapping in cold, windy weather.
-
Toothbrush & Toothpaste: Biodegradable.
-
First Aid Kit: Including blister care, bandages, painkillers, antiseptic, and high-altitude medication (Diamox, Dexamethasone).
-
Personal Medications: Any prescription or altitude-related medication.
-
Hand Sanitizer & Wet Wipes: For hygiene in remote areas.
-
Diarrhea Medications: Important for high-altitude expeditions.
-
Ear Plugs: To block out noise in camp.
9. Navigation & Communication
-
GPS Device: For route tracking and navigation.
-
Maps: Detailed, printed topographical maps of Makalu and its surrounding areas.
-
Compass: As a backup to GPS.
-
Satellite Phone: For emergency communication with base camp or rescue teams.
-
Two-Way Radios: To communicate with teammates in real time.
-
Power Bank: For recharging electronics in base camp or advanced camps.
10. Miscellaneous
-
Camera: A small, durable camera or GoPro to document the journey.
-
Notebook & Pen: For keeping a journal or notes.
-
Trekking Poles: Optional but can help with stability on long walks to the base camp.
-
Climbing Tape: For protection and injury management.
-
Multi-Tool: Small, lightweight multi-tool for emergencies.
-
Trash Bags: Leave no trace; pack out all your waste.
11. Expedition-Specific
-
Oxygen System: If necessary (depends on the planned route and altitude).
-
Summit Pack: Lightweight, for carrying essentials on summit day (e.g., food, water, camera).
-
Avalanche Transceiver: If the route involves avalanche-prone areas.
-
Climbing Permit & Documentation: All necessary permits for Makalu, insurance, and ID.
-
Personal Locator Beacon: For emergency signaling.
Additional Tips:
-
Weight Management: Pack as light as possible while ensuring all safety needs are met.
-
Test Gear: Ensure everything fits well and works before the expedition, especially boots, harnesses, and crampons.
-
Clothing Layering: Dress in layers to easily regulate body temperature as you ascend or descend.
-
Altitude Acclimatization: Make sure to spend time acclimatizing to avoid altitude sickness.
Route Map
